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Screen Reclaiming: The Dip Tank Process

Screen reclamation tends to be most screen printers’ least favorite part. Removing ink, emulsion, haze and tape isn’t near as much fun as creating artwork or actually printing the t-shirt. What many printers don’t realize is that there is a much easier, quicker, cleaner and cheaper way to reclaim screens – dip tanks.

Dip Tank

Four screen dip tank (Up to 25"x36")

Dip tanks are usually made out of polythylene and can normally hold four to eight screens. The tank is filled with water or a water/chemical mix depending on what the printer is attempting to achieve. Let’s dive into how the dip tank can help you in your screen printing business.


The screen reclaiming process generally has four steps: ink removal, emulsion removal, haze removal and degreasing. With each step you are required to apply the chemical to the mesh, scrub the mesh thoroughly and then rinse it out.

Here’s a cost and time breakdown in the standard method:

  • Ink remover applied, scrubbed and rinsed: .25 per application
  • Emulsion remover applied, scrubbed and rinsed: .10 per application
  • Haze/stain remover applied, scrubbed and rinsed: . 28 per application
  • Degreaser applied, scrubbed and rinsed: .03 per application

This process on average can cost 66 cents per screen in chemicals and take about 10 minutes.

With the dip tank reclaiming process you can cut over half of the time and cost. Simply card off excess ink, remove tape and place the screen in the dip tank with your solution and water mix. After one or two minutes, remove the screen from the tank and rinse it. Apply a haze remover/degreaser combination product and rinse once more.

Here’s a cost and time breakdown in the dip tank method:

  • Screen placed in dip tank with solution/water mix and rinsed: .15 per application
  • Haze/stain remover applied, scrubbed, and rinsed: .09 per application

This process on average can cost 24 cents per screen in chemicals and take about 4 minutes.

As you can see, you can cut around 60-65% of your cost and time using a dip tank. This averages out to be 42 cents savings in chemicals and 72 cents savings in labor costs (assuming you are paying the current minimum wage cost, $7.25 per hour) for a total of $1.14 per reclaim in savings.

Now, how long will it take us to recoup our investment in a dip tank? If our tank costs $450.00 and we save $1.14 in each reclaim, it will only take 395 reclaims to pay for the tank. After the tank is paid for, how much money will you save by having it in use at your shop?

  • 10 screens / week – $592.80 / year savings
  • 25 screens / week – $1,482.00 / year savings
  • 100 screens / week – $5,928.00 / year savings

There are other benefits of using a dip tank system:

  • Less water usage
  • Cleaner wash out booth area
  • Better attitude from your employee who cleans screens
  • Streamlined process that is easier to teach and retain

As you can see, the many benefits of using a dip tank will quickly offset it’s initial cost. The numbers in this article portray an average screen printing shop. You may be able to reclaim faster or slower than this. Plug your own production numbers into the formula and see what you come up with.

Things to Consider

As great and easy as the dip tank process can be, there are a few things one must realize when they are purchasing a dip tank.

  • Dip tanks don’t work magic. A three year old stencil will be just as tough to reclaim in a dip tank as it would be by hand. Dip tanks work best with stencils that are six months or newer.
  • You will want to ensure that your frames are properly sealed. A frame with a hole or a leak will take on water inside the tank.
  • Wooden frames may warp quicker if they are left in the dip tank for an extended amount of time. Be sure to leave any wooden frames in the dip tank no longer than is necessary.

In Conclusion

Implementing a dip tank system in your screen printing business will allow you to save time and money reclaiming screens while maintaining a cleaner work space and improving employee attitudes. I challenge you to input your own numbers into the formula and see how much money and time you can save by investing in a dip tank.

– Tance Hughes is President of Tesep Supply Company. The company sells textile screen printing supplies and offers training to new and existing screen printers.


Filed under: Chemicals, Screens, , , , , , , , , , ,

Exposure Step Test

Here’s an article by Murakami Screen on how to properly create an Exposure Step Test as well as how to evaluate your results.

– Murakami Screen is a manufacturer of screen printing products such as emulsion, chemicals, dip tanks, and other accessories.

Filed under: Screens, Uncategorized, , , , , , ,

Quick Tips: Ghost Images

Ever wondered why your screens keep a faint “ghost” image in your screen? I’m going to quickly share with you why this happens and how to eliminate it.

Ink passes in and out of mesh openings during the printing process. After printing, most printers put the dirty screen in the rack and move on to the next job. The dirty screen has leftover ink particles sitting in the mesh openings and “staining” the mesh. Once the screen is reclaimed a ghost image remains in the mesh and the printer then has to either go back and use a dehazing product to get the stain out or emulsifies the hazed screen and leaves the screen with the image embedded into the mesh. By taking a few seconds after the finish of a print run to clean out the mesh openings, a printer can save time, money, and effort in their cleaning process.

Once you are finished with a print run, immediately take ink remover and wipe out the exposed mesh in your stencil on your screen. This removes the ink and doesn’t allow it to sit and stain the mesh. Even if you plan to use the screen the next day, it is wise to go ahead and clean out the stencil to protect again the staining.

When your screen is taken to be reclaimed, the mesh will have little or no haze. By taking the simple step of immediately removing ink from your stencil after a print run, you will encounter much less need to use a dehazing product, much less time and effort spent dehazing your screens, and you will be able to print more ink in one stroke due to clean mesh!

– Tance Hughes is President of Tesep Supply Company. The company sells textile screen printing supplies and offers training to new and existing screen printers.

Filed under: Quick Tips, Uncategorized, , , , , , , , ,

It’s All in the Screen

Take a moment and think about why you went into business. If you’re like me, you started your business to make money. You invested money, time and resources into an idea and ran with it.

Now, did you jump into your business blind or did you do lots of research and careful planning to analyze every step you took? Hopefully you did your homework and planned out your path to success.

The same train of thought applies to screen making. Do you use static aluminum frames with low tension and print-flash-print whites (or worse, colors), or are you printing one stroke of every color and getting maximum opacity with high tension roller frames?

While retensionable roller frames cost more upfront than static aluminum frames, the money you will save (or better yet, earn!) from using the correct tension will propel your screen printing business to higher profits, quicker print speed, superior quality, faster growth, and less problems that you will most likely have to end up putting a band-aid on.

What is This Going to Cost Me?

Let’s start with the initial investment:

(24) Newman Roller Frame 18″x20″ I.D. MZX frames at $38.84 each ($932.16), plus about $4.00 of mesh for each frame ($96.00), a tension meter ($359.00), and a toolkit ($380.50) is equal to $1,767.66.

(24) Static Aluminum Frames 18″x20″ pre-stretched with mesh at $21.00 each is equal to $504.00.

Your initial investment in roller frames is over three times the cost of the static frame kit. At first glance, the decision seems to be a no-brainer. Why spend three times the amount of money on those retensionable frames when the static frames come pre-assembled and ready to go for 500 bucks? I’ll tell you why, just bear with me.

The first couple of uses of your new static frames will work just fine. The ink willclear the screen easily, the multi-color jobs will register fine, and jobs will go out the door with relative ease. However, after the first round of jobs you will notice that the ink won’t clear the screen after the first stroke. Multi-color jobs will not register properly. White ink will have to printed with two strokes, flashed, printed again with either one or two strokes, flashed again, and then you will be able to print your colors. Stencils won’t be thick enough. Exposure times will jump around and some stencils will wash out too much or not wash out at all. Ink will build up on your prints and it will feel like you are wearing a bulletproof vest made out of ink on your chest. Production speed will halt to a crawl. Wrists will grow weary of print strokes. Midnight oil will be burned at your shop while you continue to work on the job. These are but a few of the problems that you will encounter when you screen print with screens that have poor tension.

Actual Production Application

We’re going to showcase a job brought into a print shop that the customer wanted reproduced. The shop that printed the original uses static aluminum frames. The shop that reproduced the artwork uses Newman Roller Frames. The white ink was printed through a 110 mesh and the royal blue ink was printed through a 230 mesh.

This is the first image that was printed. The white had been printed/flashed/printed and built up very thick on the garment. Both screens were tensioned around 15 Newtons.

Let’s take the 2 color print on a black t-shirt. A full front image in white and royal blue. On a static aluminum frame (in this instance around 15 Newtons), you will most likely need to print two strokes of white ink (.05 per stroke), flash, one stroke of white ink (.05 per stroke), flash, one stroke of royal blue ink (.05 per stroke). This means you have $0.20 of ink sitting on your garment. On a 100-shirt job, you have spent $20.00 in ink, plus whatever your cost is in two flashes.

The loose tension will not have the proper openings in the mesh therefore causing you to put more pressure into your stroke and only getting a little bit of ink through the mesh. The screen will be loose and may not pop right back up after printing, bringing up the possibility of the ink smearing on multi-color jobs or the shirt sticking to the screen.

This is the second image that was printed. This was one stroke of white ink with a soft hand. Both screens were tensioned around 35 Newtons.

Using retensionable roller frames at the correct tension (in this instance, 35 Newtons), you can print the exact same job with one stroke of white (.05 per stroke), a flash (.05 per flash), and one stroke of royal blue (.05 per stroke). You have $0.10 of ink sitting on your garment and only the cost for one flash. On a 100-shirt job, you have spent $10.00 in ink.

The tight tension on roller frames will allow you to fill the mesh openings in your fill (or flood) stroke and lay the ink on top of the garment with minimal pressure. Tight tension will make the screen jump right back up after the squeegee has passed over the openings and will not stick or smear the ink.

So What’s the Savings?

10,000 2-color prints (4 total strokes, 2 flashes) on static frames at 15 Newtons at .30 each – $3,000.00

10,000 2-color prints (2 total strokes, 1 flash) on roller frames at 35 Newtons at .15 each – $1,500.00

The savings in ink and flash cost on 10,000 impressions alone will almost purchase your entire roller frame kit. Now, you may think 10,000 impressions will take a while to get to. Fair enough, let’s consider the savings in overhead that you will encounter.

Let’s say your shop rate is $50/hour (includes labor, light bill, phone bill, all overhead etc.) If you’re able to print 50 shirts per hour on a Riley Hopkins Press with the static frames at $50/hour, it will take you 200 hours to print 10,000 impressions. That adds up to be $10,000 in costs or $1.00 per shirt.

Now, by printing the design on the same press with retensionable frames, your print time is cut in half. You should be able to print about 100 shirts per hour at your $50/hour rate, and spend only $5,000 (.50 per shirt) in overhead over the course of the 10,000 impressions.

Now how would that $5,000 savings affect your business?

From an Automatic Point of View

Another way to look at this is if you use an automatic press. Printing on an M&R Diamondback press at 480 pcs. per hour at the same shop rate per hour will cost you ($50 x 20.8333 hours) $1,041.66 in overhead using retensionable frames.

Using static frames on an auto? Realistically you’re looking about half the production speed. So you’d spend $2,083.32 in overhead costs.

So Now What?

If you take the time to apply these numbers to your business you will see where Newman Roller Frames will drastically help grow your business in greater strides than you ever imagined!

– Tance Hughes is President of Tesep Supply Company. The company sells textile screen printing supplies and offers training to new and existing screen printers.

Filed under: Screens, , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Emulsion Coating Techniques

Wondering how to properly coat your screens? This article by Murakami will help explain which side of the coater to use, how to lay down an even coating of emulsion, and why EOM is so important in the screen developing process.

– Murakami Screen is a manufacturer of screen printing products such as emulsion, chemicals, dip tanks, and other accessories.

Filed under: Screens, , , , , ,

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